Canada Can 2. Montreal & Quebec

MONTREAL

The only non fun part of this tour is the amount of time we spend in our very uncomfortable bus getting to our next destination. The seats and seatbelts leave a little to be desired. First world problems!

A looooong day of driving gets us to our first stop in French Canada, Montreal. I’ve forgotten the very few words I learnt way back in April at the beginning of my adventures. Luckily they mostly speak English here too and if they don’t, they are usually lying. Just like France!

Montreal is infinitely more interesting to me than Toronto. In fact we all warmed to the city quickly. It has a European vibe about it. The old town area has cobblestone streets and lots and lots of tourist shops. Just like Europe! We arrived for dinner at our chosen restaurant, who brewed their own beer, just in time for happy hour to enjoy five dollar pints. I got two! At once!

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NOTRE DAME CATHEDRAL

Another city, another Notre Dame, another extraordinary church. Unassuming on the outside but gasp worthy on the inside. Staggering beauty. Another religious money spinner with a five dollar entry fee but worthy of both the dollars and time.

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MONTREAL JARDIN BOTANIQUE and MOSAICULTURE

The visual feast just got better with a visit to an extraordinary sculptural plant exhibition at the local botanic gardens. The gardens are just next to the Olympic Stadium which are worth a visit too but we didn’t get there. A real turn off at $29.50 entry but it turned out to be some of the best money I’ve spent the whole trip and worth the stop in Montreal alone. This special event is held every three years in different countries around the world and by god I hope it comes to Australia someday. I’ve seen plant sculptures before but nothing had prepared me for what I was about to see. It even has its own special term – Mosaiculture.

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It started off ordinarily enough with cute, clever and quirky life size designs of the like I have seen before.

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I had to indulge my fetish in other ways.

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What truly affected me was their ability to display true emotion and pathos in the sculptures. The Mother Earth Mosaiculture as well as being grand evoked such peace about her that it nearly brought me to tears. Staggering beauty so many times in one day. Lucky happy horti.

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Phoenix

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Mother Earth

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Shaggy dog, the animal sculptures like this are not strictly Mosaiculture but are included in the exhibition because they are just so damn cute

Plant species used

Despite the diversity in the designs the Mosaiculture overall tend to use the same species as they are ideal for their hardy, low maintenance requirements. Compact, slow growing, colourful, hardy and water friendly.

Alternanthera, buxus, cuphea, curry bush, festuca glauca, asparagus fern, heuchera, bedding begonias, marigolds, rudbeckia, petunias, prostrate conifers, ivy, potato vine, prostrate ornamental sweet potato. Many of these plants (in italics) I wouldn’t use in a million years in Australia as they have extreme weed potential.

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Nemo has been found

Succulents were popular too with species like echeveria, sedum, seaweed like euphorbia firesticks, senecio blue chalk and kalanchoe flapjacks.

The sculptures themselves took all of my attention so I did not really see much of their other gardens but I did spend a little bit of time in their vegetable patch. Impressive to say the least. It just goes to show how something useful can also be colourful, artistic and beautiful.

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CAFE O NOIR

Dining in the dark. Not a bit dim or candlelit but in complete and utter darkness.

The waiters in this restaurant are blind and the dining is designed to allow patrons to experience their world. We’d heard mixed reviews of this Canadian innovation but couldn’t pass up the opportunity. There is a bit of a process to make it work. Before entering the dining room we had to order our food and drink in the lobby with the sighted staff. Our waiter Fay then collected us and led us into his sightless world. The group had to connect to each other in a line with our left hands on each others shoulders as we entered into the pitch. Like a family of elephants holding trunks and tails! He seated each of us and let us know where our glasses, plates and cutlery were.

The absolute darkness is unnerving. I had moments of feeling an irrational claustrophobia as the dark closed in on me. It is surreal being in a space for which you have no visual reference. I had no idea how big the room was or how many other diners there were. The only physical reference of space that I had was the wall I was seated next to and the curtain we came in by. My assumption is that the space is divided up into curtained areas and pathways to make it easy and safe for the staff to navigate.

Eating food by feel with cutlery is no easy feat. If one is really brave, which I was not, one can order the mystery entree, main and cocktail. The idea is to engage your taste senses and guess what’s in your dinner. I played it safe and had a lamb shank and sorbet. Thankfully the meat just fell off the bone and I managed to eat it all without resorting to my fingers and without getting it all over myself. I had worn black just in case.

An extraordinary and unusual experience. I can cross that off my to do list! Once is enough. The light was bright and loud when we eventually emerged. I was very grateful to move back out into my cacophonous sighted visual world. For obvious reasons there are no photos.

QUEBEC

Wet, Wet Wet in Quebec, Quebec, Quebec.

I’m sure it would have been lovely if it hadn’t rained. Everything is better with a bit of sunshine. Our mode of travel means we only get one day in each town and our one day here was wet wet wet. The main visual attraction is the posh Hotel Fairmont or Le Chateau Frontenac that looks more like fairytale castle than a hotel. We did wander in on the look out for the dog that the hotel reputedly keeps as a mascot but no luck. The town is in fact resplendent with fine architecture, cute streets and quirky shops but we were just too damp to get really enthusiastic. We did manage to eat lobster though. In this neck of the woods there must always be lobster!

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Quebec is a walled city with loads of history and a pretty harbour. If it had been a sunny day and we could have actually seen it we would have done a walking tour. It would have been nice to learn something about the city. I left as ignorant as I arrived. I know that’s not hard.

And that’s it for Canada. Too short.

NEXT STOP THE USA STATE OF MAINE

But first I have to keep sharing the wonders of Mosaiculture

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And of course my hugs

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And Mother Nature one more time. Isn’t she pretty!

CANADA CAN 1 – Niagara Falls and Toronto

CANADA

I don’t know what it is about me and border crossings but there is always something. This one was at least funny. At the Canadian border we had to pile out of the car into customs. We somehow ended up in the wrong place and the officer literally ordered us into the corner. In the naughty corner again! Nobody puts baby in the corner! He wasn’t impressed.

NIAGARA FALLS

A bucket list item! The first thing that you notice when you arrive near the falls is that it seems like it is raining. There is a constant fine mist in the air. The water cascades over the Horseshoe Falls with such force it sends up an abundance of mist. I was completely ignorant of the fact that Niagara is in fact three falls. The largest being the Horseshoe which is on both American and Canadian borders. Apparently they argue about where the actual border lies. The Americans want more! Solely on the American side is the imaginatively named American Falls with the diminutive Bridal Falls alongside.

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American Falls and little Bridal Falls on the right

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The Horseshoe

AHOY ME MATEYS

Elegantly clad in our complementary blue ponchos the new team boarded the Maid of the Mist for a close encounter with one of natures true wonders. The boat gets as close as it dares and when in the presence of the awesome Horseshoe you really get wet. I was at the back of the boat and rushed to the front just in time to get thoroughly soaked. I felt separated from the experience by the blue poncho and ripped the hoodie off my head so I could lift my face to the sky and spray to really feel it! One of the most exhilarating moments of my life. I wanted to do it again straight away and again and again and again! It would be awesome to do it with no poncho and really bask in it. Perhaps there is a special tour for naturists!

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TORONTO

Leaving behind the awesomeness that is Niagara we headed to Toronto, one of Canada’s main cities. We arrived just in time for a major film festival. However instead of going to see an actual movie we amused ourselves by wandering the streets attempting some futile celebrity spotting. We didn’t see Scarlet Johansson, George Clooney, Sandra Bullock, Ewan McGregor or anyone else for that matter. But we did have a lot of fun not seeing anyone.

Cities are wasted on a girl like me. I just can’t get excited about a bunch of buildings. I squandered or perhaps wisely used my only morning there catching up on my blog and others dastardly deeds like working out how much money I’ve spent. A LOT more than I thought. Eek.

After that shock I headed out to face the streets and quickly abandoned them in favour of the waterfront. To my mind it was definitely the most beautiful part of the city with lots of leafy green spaces, cafes and restaurants to hang out in. After having sushi in a park next to the water I of course found the only taphouse! They do make nice beers here.

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DISTILLERY DISTRICT

One of the best things about travel is the people you meet and I’ve been lucky to make some life long friends on my journey. In Toronto I got to catch up with my darling Ani from the Madrid to Barcelona Intrepid tour and she treated me to an amazing night out. The Distillery District is a hip area with funky eclectic shops and amazing restaurants. I had the best Mexican of my life there and a pretty darn good Margarita. Blessedly free of tourists like me!

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For those of you who actually enjoy cities Toronto does have loads to do. You can go up the CN Tower, visit the Baseball Hall of Fame, shop in an underground shopping city or funky markets and even an island to visit. I of course did none of these things. Sorry Toronto.

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CN Tower

NEXT STOP MONTREAL

Upstate New York, God help USA 1

NEW YORK

Now don’t all yell at me at once but in the 36 hours or so I spent in New York I didn’t actually leave my hotel. I know, I know its not usually the done thing when one comes to a city like New York but I had my reasons. I was a bit done in from the trials & tribulations of travel AND I am actually coming back for a week very soon. I’ll be back! Hopefully it will still be there.

FINGER LAKES

Giving up the girl power solo travel for a while I’ve joined another small group tour doing a round trip from NY up into Canada and back. I’ve hit the travel companion jackpot again and scored a group of eleven Aussies and one Swiss. Eleven women and one man, poor fella. How much trouble can can we get into? Quite a lot.

Leaving NY behind we headed out to the Finger Lakes district in upstate New York. This beautiful series of lakes are so named by the American Indian tribes because apparently from above the slender narrow lakes look like the fingers of god. They are not finger licking good as was suggested by a friend of mine. This region opens up a whole new landscape of trees for me to discover. The main new one being Hemlock Tsuga canadensis not to be confused with poison hemlock.

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The visual hero of the day was Taughannock Falls, a waterfall next to one of the lakes that we reached by walking alongside a beautiful limestone river bed. We even spotted some young Amish couples courting but my stealthy gangsta photographer efforts produced only a blur.

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WINE TASTING

A very pleasant surprise that wasn’t in my trip notes, a stop off at the coolest little winery, cafe and outdoor music venue. You all know how much I hate unexpected random encounters with alcohol. The tasting options were simple and cheap. For a mere three dollars we tasted eight wines off their extensive list. A gaggle of Australian women lined up at the bar enthusiastically sampling their wares was not loud at all! I don’t think the establishment had experienced anything quite like it before. He did mention something about me being trouble, I don’t know why! The wines were excellent and all made from locally grown grapes. Hip label, Americana Vineyards at Crystal Lakes, run by fun people who have their dogs as their mascots. Cute as. Wine, dogs, music, free samples of dips, chips and candies. Another terrible day in my adventures.

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Our accommodation for the night was in the little town of Waterloo. Unassuming little Waterloo is the proud home of the very first women’s rights convention in 1848. The sign post informing me of that sure was hug worthy. Thanks to them and millions of my sisters I am allowed to hug a pole, or anything else for that matter, any time I feel like it. Thank you ladies.

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NEXT STOP CANADA